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x0x A walk through the Land of Light
By ERSIN DEMIREL
Turkeys longest hiking trail at 509 km, the Lycian
Way takes visitors on a journey in time and space
through the history and natural beauty of the Land
of Light.
The hiking trails in the Kackars, in Cappadocia
and around Istanbul are Turkeys leading centers
for the newly developing branch of nature tourism.
Most of us however are not even aware of the
existence of the Lycian Way, one of the worlds
longest such trails. The Lycian Way, which ranks
with Annapurna (Nepal), Torres del Paine (Chile)
and the Inca Trail (Peru) among the worlds
favorite trekking routes, was selected 15th last
year as one of The Best 50 Hiking Trails by the
English magazine, Country Walking.
The Lycian Way project, which won the prize for
the environment category in a competition
sponsored five years ago by Garanti Bank, is the
fruit of an original and arduous study by
Englishwoman Kate Clow.
The route, which is marked out from beginning to
end with signposts and the international sign
system (Grand Randonne), is Turkeys longest hiking
trail at 509 km. Steeped in natural beauty and the
history of ancient Lycia as its name indicates,
the trail follows the old migration routes.
Starting out from Fethiye-Hisaronu, it rises
hundreds of meters from the coves of the
Mediterranean, welcoming visitors to the
mysterious cities of ancient Lycia and culminating
in the village of Hisarcan 25 km from Antalya.
The Lycian homeland or Land of Light is the area
between Antalya and Koycegiz on the Teke
peninsula.
The Lycians, who called themselves the Trmmili
(Termilae), were known for their love of freedom
and war-like traditions.
Founding countless cities reminiscent of eagles
eyries in this harsh terrain and scorching
climate, they possessed an original culture with
rock tombs and sarcophagi worked in the local
limestone, and the Lycian League, whose capital
was at Patara, was a forerunner of many modern-day
systems of statehood with its concept of
autonomous rule.
The Lycians, who made their living as sailors,
pirates and mercenaries, had a matriarchal
society. But come now, let us set out on an
extensive but pleasant tour through the Land of
Light.
STARTING OUT FROM HISARONU
The Lycian Way begins at the resort village of
Hisaronu-Montana. As the ancient migration route
rises from the foothills of Mt Babadag, colorful
hang gliders in a rainbow of colors are heading
for the white sands of the Oludeniz.
Following the red and white signs, I arrive at the
brink of a precipice at Faralya. Below me lie the
Kelebekler Vadisi or 'Valley of the Butterflies',
where freedom and infinity stretch hand in hand,
and Kabak Cove whose turquoise waters turn to
azure in the depths.
The four-hour climb to Alinca is one of the
trail's most difficult segments. Then come the
Yediburunlar or 'Seven Headlands' with their
endless curves, unexpected patches of fog and
swaths of emerald green sweeping down the hills to
the heart of the sea.
And, after the ancient cities of Sidyma and
Pydnai, the endless beach at Patara, where the
Ozlen Cayi empties into the Mediterranean...
I am now on another waterway, the Delikkemer, an
ancient aqueduct built centuries ago of colossal
interlocking rocks, each with a hole in the
center, to bring water to Patara.
As the blue of the sea swallows up the sun's last
red rays, Patara drifts off to sleep and the
Caretta caretta lumber along the beach to lay
their eggs in the hot sand.
It's morning and I'm climbing from the seashore to
the cool, refreshing highlands. Fruit trees,
flocks of goats and triangular-shaped grain silos
reminiscent of Lycian tombs accompany me along the
way.
Descending from Gediktepe to Antiphellos (Kas), I
send greetings to the neighboring island of Meis
which lies opposite. The Lycian Way now proceeds
parallel to the coast, passing one by one through
the ancient cities. Apollania, Aperlai, Teimussa,
Simena...
Cyprus acacias with their yellow blossoms,
euphorbia, fire-red poppies, anemone... Boats on
'blue cruises' bob gently up and down over the
ancient sunken city of Kekova.
Soon I reach Father Christmas's home of Demre and
the ancient city of Myra, noted for its unusual
Lycian tombs.
ON TO TAHTALI FOR THE HARDY
The ancient way rises sharply from sea level to
Eren and Alaca at an altitude of 1900 m.
The other alternative requires strength and
fitness. The goal is the summit of Mt Tahtali, at
2366 meters the highest point on the trail. I
leave the waves pounding the shore behind and set
out for Tahtali, which in winter requires some ice
climbing.
From the summit of the mountain a vast panorama
lies spread out before me. Its sister peak,
Kizlarsivrisi (3070 m), the Bay of Antalya in all
its splendor, and the Bolkar and Dedegol mountains
in the distance complete the scene.
Coming together again at Gedelme, the ancient road
leaves the Goynuk highlands behind and enters a
narrow canyon. Then, returning to sea level, it
allows travelers a breathing space before heading
once again into the rugged hills. When I reach the
base of the Saricinar transmitter (1900 m), it's
only another 5 km to Hisarcandir, the end of the
road.
FOUR SEASONS IN A SINGLE DAY
The trekking season is long here where the winter
months are quite temperate due to the prevailing
Mediterranean climate.
The other alternative requires strength and
fitness. The goal is the summit of Mt Tahtali, at
2366 meters the highest point on the trail. I
leave the waves pounding the shore behind and set
out for Tahtali, which in winter requires some ice
climbing. From the summit of the mountain a vast
panorama lies spread out before me. Its sister
peak, Kizlarsivrisi (3070 m), the Bay of Antalya
in all its splendor, and the Bolkar and Dedegol
mountains in the distance complete the scene.
Coming together again at Gedelme, the ancient road
leaves the Goynuk highlands behind and enters a
narrow canyon. Then, returning to sea level, it
allows travelers a breathing space before heading
once again into the rugged hills.
When I reach the base of the Saricinar transmitter
(1900 m), it's only another 5 km to Hisarcandir,
the end of the road.
FOUR SEASONS IN A SINGLE DAY
The trekking season is long here where the winter
months are quite temperate due to the prevailing
Mediterranean climate.
But the best time for hiking is early spring when
you can see at once the snow-capped mountains and
the wild flowers that carpet the earth.
Nor should it be forgotten that the four seasons
can be experienced in a single day on the mountain
peaks. Since hiking the entire trail in one go
takes some 35-40 days, its best to divide it up
into steps. For details, you can consult Kate
Clows guidebook, published in English, whose
detailed map is a boon for trekking buffs.
Anybody who wants to can walk the trail by simply
following the red and white lines. A red x means
you deviated from the trail, and twice-repeated
red and white signs are a reminder that you have
come to a fork in the road. Placed at
approximately every 50 meters, the signs are
renewed at regular intervals by volunteers.
The signs nonetheless may sometimes go missing due
to natural conditions, occasional vandalism, and
the opening up of new forest roads. In this case,
returning to the last sign and calmly
reconnoitering the area again will ensure that you
find the right way.
You too should experience this matchless adventure
in time and space, to savor solitude, serenity and
nature as well as the thyme-gathering mountain
nomads, the tart taste of carob, the mysteries of
the Lycian homeland, the summit of Tahtali and the
Mediterraneans endless blue.
--
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